The sun is setting on the 14 763 sq kms of the Serengeti. In one small corner of this Tanzanian national park, we’ve just finished our meal, cooked over an open fire by our guide Abasi. As dark falls the noise levels increase, and although nobody says anything, it’s clear from people’s eyes that they’re nervous about sleeping under canvas. And who wouldn’t be. An estimated 3 million large animals roam the plains, the largest concentration of wildlife in the world. The Maasai tribe calls Serengeti Siringitu – ‘the place where the land moves on forever.’
An estimated 3 million large animals roam the plains of the Serengeti, which explains why the Maasai call it “the place where the land moves on forever.”
Blood red cloaks and a rifle
Finally, I ask what’s been on everyone’s mind since dusk. What’s to stop animals going on the rampage and trashing our camp and us? Abasi grins, shouts something in Swahili and suddenly standing before us are three very tall Maasai warriors wearing blood red cloaks, each carrying a rifle.
That night I sleep a lot easier knowing we have some protection. The second night isn’t so tranquil. A single gunshot, followed by a high pitched squeal and the whole camp awake. A wild boar is dead.
Killing twice a month
In the morning, I ask Abasi how often the guards have to shoot. He shrugs and says it depends on the season, but on average maybe once or twice a month. I don’t know about the other four in my group, but waking up to find my presence caused an animal to have its brains blown out makes me feel terrible.
This memory has stayed with me for years and underlines the dilemma of going on safari. So what are the options if you want to get close to the world’s wildlife, but don’t want to endanger some already very endangered animals?
Volunteer for duty
Arguably, the best way is to join a conservation organization. Depending upon what you’ve got to offer, you’ll get the chance to use either your brains or brawn to help protect animals, while seeing some pretty amazing sights. There are literally hundreds of places that offer this option. Remember to shop around. You are giving your time for free so you shouldn’t have to pay over the odds for the privilege.
Get high
This is the most dramatic option and a mindblowing way to see the world’s wildlife. Not only do you get an incredible bird’s eye view of the world, but a real feeling of serenity. And if that wasn’t enough, when you eventually land, most ballooning companies will provide you with a champagne breakfast. Needless to say, this doesn’t come cheap.
Shoot them
You stay far away enough not to do any damage, but with your telescopic lenses on hand, you can shoot some of the world’s rarest animals. In Finland, for example, you can capture bears and wolves. If you’d like to see what’s possible when it comes to nature photography, check out the fantastic website Wild Wonders of Europe.
